Have you started your holiday baking yet? If not, you’re already behind!
With Chanukah and Advent both beginning yesterday, and American
Thanksgiving last week, the Holiday Treat Season is in full swing! Let’s
have a look at how our 19th century forbears celebrated in the kitchen.
In *Cold-Blooded Myrtle*, you’ll find that Myrtle (not to mention her
erudite alter-ego) has some Strong Opinions regarding holiday food.
A spread showing recommended dishes for the Yuletide feast from *Mrs.
Beeton’s Book of Household Management*
Just like today, Victorian families celebrated their year-end holidays with
food, drink, and feasting. F.W. Dawson’s treatise on the history of the
holiday, *Christmas: Its Origins & Associations* (1902) contains no fewer
than sixteen illustrations featuring Christmas food and feasting through
the centuries, including this look at Renaissance wassailers:
Wassailing was an early incarnation of Christmas caroling, in which people
went door-to-door to toast the season with their neighbors (“Wassail,” or *waes
hael,* is an Anglo-Saxon toast meaning “Good health”). A popular carol from
the mid-1800s immortalizes the tradition:
*Here we come a wassailing, among the leaves so green Here we come a
wand’ring, so fair to be seen. Love and joy come to you, and to you your
wassail too, And God bless you and send you a happy new year!*
Revelers fortunate enough to be invited inside would be welcomed with a
holiday spread for the ages.
“Christmas Eve Dinner,” 1904 by Swedish artist Carl Larsson
Charles Dickens, *who did much to promote Christmas to an eager Victorian
audience*, offered several lively depictions of grand holiday meals (even
among his characters of modest means).
*There never was such a goose. Bob said he didn’t believe there ever was
such a goose cooked. Its tenderness and flavour, size and cheapness, were
the themes of universal admiration. Eked out by apple-sauce and mashed
potatoes, it was a sufficient dinner for the whole family; indeed, as Mrs
Cratchit said with great delight (surveying one small atom of a bone upon
the dish), they hadn’t ate it all at last! Yet everyone had had enough, and
the youngest Cratchits in particular, were steeped in sage and onion to the
eyebrows!* *—A Christmas Carol, 1843*
This particular goose is from the Cratchits’ celebration of Christmas
Present (of course, they later have an even *more* spectacular goose,
thanks to Scrooge). But where would the poor Cratchits have gotten such a
meal? From their local Goose Club.
The mysterious goose from “The Blue Carbuncle,” Sidney Paget, 1891
Goose Clubs were a type of layaway, sponsored by neighborhood pubs or other
organizations, in which families could put in a few pence each week and be
sure to have a nice fat goose for their Christmas tables. A sinister twist
on this custom (including quite a detailed explanation of its workings)
appears in *the only Sherlock Holmes story set at Christmas, “The Blue
Carbuncle.”*
After the goose, the dish probably most associated with Victorian British
Christmas dinner is the pudding—plum pudding, figgy pudding, Christmas
pudding, whatever you term it, Christmas wasn’t Christmas without the pud.
This collectible illustration from the 1896 *Pears Annual* (a holiday
magazine produced every year by English soap company Pears) celebrates the
anticipation and arrival of this most quintessential dish. Charles Green’s
painting depicts a Christmas feast of a much earlier age—note the
old-fashioned clothing of the diners from a good half century or more
before. Even the Victorians were nostalgic about Christmas!
Plum pudding was made weeks in advance, to allow the alcohol and other
ingredients to become fully… potent. The last Sunday before Advent, known
as “Stir-Up Sunday,” became the traditional day for families to make their
puddings. In the Book of Common Prayer, the church service for that Sunday
begins, *“Stir up, we beseech thee, O Lord, the wills of thy faithful
people.”* And what better way to get into the faithful spirit of Advent
then stirring up some Christmas cheer? This year’s Stir-up Sunday was
actually last weekend (November 21), but there’s certainly still time to
get your pudding in the steamer.
If you want to plan a traditional 19th century holiday feast this year,
you’ll appreciate the guidance and recipes of Isabella Beeton, the guru to
whom generations of cooks and housewives *have turned for advice since 1861*.
A bestseller for well over a century, *Mrs. Beeton’s Book of Household
Management* contains all you need to know to cook up the perfect Victorian
Christmas dinner. You may consult all of Mrs. Beeton’s recipes at Project
Gutenberg at the link above.
I’d like to try this recipe, myself, her alcohol-free pudding:
Have fun stirring up some holiday cheer in your own kitchens this year!
Wassail!
The post #MyrtleMondays: Victorian Cookery for the Holidays appeared first
on Elizabeth C. Bunce.
Patti S.
I thoroughly enjoyed reading this piece. It was very interesting to read about the discrepancies for men and women going to college. Thank you for sharing. I just love your books! I am rereading them for a second time. Thank you for sharing your talent with us. Take care!